Waterproof Wool 1880s
In the 1870s and 1880s, “waterproof wool” relied on dense weaves, natural lanolin, and chemical treatments rather than synthetic laminates. Heavy woolens like English waterproof cloth, Cheviots, and the famous Ulster overcoat kept wearers dry during outdoor pursuits. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Materials and Fabrics
- The Ulster Coat: Invented in the 1860s and peaking in popularity through the 1870s and 1880s, the Ulster was a heavy, rugged, waterproof woolen overcoat used for traveling and hunting. [1, 2]
- English Waterproof Cloth: A heavily milled, tightly woven woolen fabric treated to shed rain while still allowing the garment to breathe. [1, 2, 3]
- Cheviots and Angolas: Sturdy, rough-textured regional wools favored for rugged weather resistance in outdoor jackets and walking wear. [1]
- Gabardine: Invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879, this tightly woven, steep-twill fabric revolutionized weather-resistant woolens. [1, 2]
Waterproofing and Maintenance Methods
- Natural Lanolin: Retained raw sheep’s grease within unwashed or lightly processed wool fibers acted as a natural water repellant.
- Chemical Recipes: Period household guides and journals from the late 19th century recommended treating fabrics with specialized mixtures of alum, sugar of lead, soap, resin, or tallow to seal wool against moisture without losing breathability. [1, 2, 3, 4]